The islands are an erosion-resistant outcrop of basalt off the Northumberland coast. The group consists of 14 sizeable islands and numerous rocks, some of these are seen only at low water. To give an idea of scale, 7 nautical miles would complete a circumnavigation of them all. The islands, a nature reserve of the National Trust have no facilities and landing is allowed only on Inner Farne, Staple Island and Longstone for a small fee. The attractions are the birds, the seals and the solitude. Images of the rugged islands, the downwind smell of the guano and the clamour of thousands of bickering seabirds will long stay in the visitor's memory.

Visiting sailors must be experienced and self-sufficient, this is no place to take liberties with. You must be able to navigate in poor visibility and carry water and provisions. Inshore weather forecasts should not be missed especially if you are staying overnight. Swell can be a problem and if the wind is between north-west and south-east swell will build up. Swell from the north may originate hundreds of miles away and may not diminish for two or more days after the gale has blown out. You should also be aware of fog associated with high pressure systems that pull air across the North Sea.

The islands are divided into two groups separated by Staple Sound. Both groups have a lighthouse.

The light on Inner Farne marks the inshore passage known as Inner Sound which is sometimes used by coasters. The inner group offers greater security and the Kettle, although uncomfortable, is the anchorage to be in bad weather. The others should be chosen according to weather and sea conditions.

The two moorings in the Kettle are laid for tripper boats out from Seahouses that are waiting to return their passengers from Inner Farne. In settled weather a perfect anchorage can be found inside Knocks Reef. Everywhere kelp can foul your anchor but in daylight the bottom can normally be seen and you can place the hook on a sandy patch. In settled weather a perfect anchorage can be found close-in to north-east of West Wideopen. Feel your way in toward a small sandy beach and anchor as close as conditions allow. Impossibly high above the HW line is the wreck of the trawler ‘Childrens Friend’. A third anchorage is said to be in Stamford Haven

The more powerful light is on Longstone. Currents can be strong off Longstone and tide rips can be hazardous. But in settled conditions the islands can be approached closely as there is usually deep water close in.

Shallow rocks will create turbulence and the experienced sailor will note their presence. The dinghy sailor may navigate through most gaps between the islands if (s)he has flat conditions and the nerve. Kelp fronds rise toward the surface in the crystal clear water but the careful sailor may pass through these areas at dead slow speed, prodding for bottom with the boathook. Mature kelp will be anchored up to 3.5m below. The area attracts wreck-divers out from Seahouses in rigid inflatables. One told me that the Grey seals would follow him about and nibble his fins! You are unlikely to see newborn pups as they arrive in November but you should see some juveniles from last year.

Jetties to north and south of Longstone LH give access but in good summer weather tripper boats will be frequent visitors. A fair-weather anchorage on sand 0.5m is to be found just north of the light at a position over ‘t’ of Longstone on the chartlet. Another anchorage is Pinnacle Haven, between Staple Island and Brownsman. I do not know its exact position so it is not yet marked on the chartlet.

The site of the wreck of the Forfarshire, which led to the Grace Darling heroics lies on the western edge of Big Harcar.

Holy Island lies 6M to the north west. Seahouses, a lively town with a safe harbour 2M to the south is a good place for: provisions, Post Office, restaurants, cash and supermarket. The Harbour Master will not usually charge if you are in for just an hour or two. In complete contrast Budle Bay 3M to the west is a shallow sandy inlet, only accessible at near HW in calm conditions. It is another nature reserve with no facilities and a very peaceful night can be had in Ross Low (the north-west corner).

Disclaimer: the author accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of these notes, or for any mishaps arising from their use.

Except where stated, all text, photographs & graphics©Ed Wingfield